 Careful
attention to the following proven moulding installation suggestions,
will produce a decorative home accessory you’ll be proud to show
friends.
Insure
wall area where you intend to install moulding is clean and free
of dust or loose paint.
Begin
moulding installation at one corner, and try to work alternately
each direction. Cut, prefit and check for correct length
and proper angle cuts. You needn’t be too exact; residential
dwelling corners are seldom exactly 90 degrees. Spaces of
3/8" or more are easily filled with Polyinstafil or equivalent,
prior final texture finish. Walls are frequently slightly
warped leading toward corners. You may notice a space at
the lower edge of the molding next to the wall. This can
be filled with Polyinstalfil or white acrylic latex caulk
during installation.
TIP: Moldings are sometimes easier and more accurately cut upside
down. (Fig.1)
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Use a sanding block or piece of offcut moulding to buff angle and butt ends after cutting to make smooth surfaces.
(Fig. 2) Use an inexpensive sliding T-Bevel
for measuring obtuse angles:
(greater than 90 but less than
180 degree). |
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| (Fig.
3) This
can also be used as a cutting guide, when combined
with
a protractor for angle measuring. |
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| (Fig.
4) If
you haven’t a T-Bevel, use a couple of paint stir sticks
clamped together at one end with a small "C" clamp. |
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| (Fig.
5) Follow
label instructions for adhesive application carefully.
Some adhesive
brands specify a 2 or 3 minute vent or
flash period.
This maybe safely eliminated by "pinning" the moulding
together and to the wall. Sharpened pins of
6" to 8" long can
be made from a light wire coat hanger. This will especially
reduce installation time and help where difficult moulding
alignment exists. |
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(Fig.
6) Apply
adhesive to the moulding according to directions.
Add white acrylic latex caulk to the edge of mitre
butt
joints and
lower molding edge, before final fitting. Press
moulding firmly into place and tight as possible
to the ceiling. Wipe off excess caulk, and joints should
be almost eliminated,
reducing need of repair prior texture finish. |
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| (Fig.
7a & b) Repress
moldings into place, pin, and recheck
moulding alignment
for about 20 minutes while adhesive
sets. Walls and ceiling are seldom true or plumb, preventing
moldings from initial close fit. Misalignments and cracks
in miter and butt joints are easily filled with Polyinstafil
prior texture finish. Sand joints as required. |
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(Fig.
8a & b) Ending
the molding at staircases, hallways, etc., with self
return can be made more attractive by duplicating the
profile
at the end. Place one molding at
right angle to the rear side of another molding, and
mark the
profile outline.
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| (Fig.9a & b)
Cut with hacksaw blade. Sand to eliminate any roughness.
The remaining wall to ceiling triangular relief cavity
can be filled with Polyinstafil during joint sealing. |
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